Mini Staycation along the River Schlaube
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What do you do with 2 weeks off work in the middle of a pandemic?
This question had been vexing us for months: the only fixed parameter was that I had booked the first two weeks of September off work, and even that wasn't as fixed as all that, because I'm pretty sure that my boss would have agreed to me changing it if I had asked. All the other goalposts were moving by the day (or even by the hour, it sometimes seemed), making it just about impossible to plan anything. Which countries would impose quarantine on international arrivals? Would overnight tourist stays be banned? Would hotels, restaurants and other tourist infrastructure close down? Would we decide, regardless of regulations, that the risk of infection was too great and we would rather not travel? Would we catch COVID-19 ourselves and be forced to isolate, or worse? Would we lose a lot of money if we booked a trip and then decided, or were forced, to cancel?
The upshot of all this was that we found ourselves with a hire car at our disposal from the last weekend in August with nothing specific planned to do with it; although we did ultimately drive to Austria as per what was probably our Plan C or D, we didn't go until a few days later. In the meantime, we borrowed from Plan E, which was to use the car to extend our cycling range for day trips.
For today's start/end point, I picked Beeskow, a little town to the south-east of Berlin, which had I liked the look of when I paused there the previous summer on my first ever ride to the Polish border ( https://www.strava.com/activities/2590870577 ) and, especially, I liked the chocolate cheesecake which they served me at the Konditorei there!
Flashback to August 2019: cheesecake in pretty Beeskow market square.
Today, there was a market in full swing in that very same square, so instead of the Konditorei we went and bought pastries from a bakery market-stall to take with us for our coffee break. Then we parked near the castle on the edge of town, unloaded and set up the bikes, forgot to lock the hire car, and off we went.
Beeskow castle: solid, rather than elegant
We postponed exploring the town itself to the end of our ride, and instead headed straight out of town to the south-east across the river which skirts below the castle ramparts, initially following my last year's route along a sandy trail through a pine forest - with notices warning of wolf activity! - and then along a peaceful and nicely tarmac-surfaced cycle route through forests, past small lakes and tiny isolated villages / farmsteads. In the wolf forest, we overtook another couple cycling in the same direction on nice-looking bikes with heavy touring panniers, who then passed us again almost immediately as we decided we couldn't wait any longer for our coffee and pastries, regardless of the wolf hazard. It's always fun to meet other friendly cyclists!
Coffee break in the wolf forest
The lake at Chossewitz - too much green algae for swimming (as you can see especially at the bottom right)
A nice old milestone almost overgrown at the wayside
After passing the lake at Chossewitz - where we considered having a swim, but rapidly rejected the idea when we saw the algae! - and snacking on some delicious ripe plums from a tree at the roadside, our route diverged from my last year's trip (when I continued eastwards to Neuzelle, on the Polish border). Instead, we dropped down into the River Schlaube valley, which surprisingly - almost invisible when crossing the flatlands above - intersects the landscape in a north-south direction. I was able to plan this route thanks to the "Komoot" cycle route planner ( www.komoot.com ), which I've recently become a great fan of. It gives detailed information about the type of road/trail and its surface over each part of the route, as well as other users' descriptions of various segments and attractions along the way, so you can get a pretty good impression of what the ride will be like - very much superior to the route planner built into Strava (although I find Strava routes easier to follow in the phone app during the ride).
Komoot route planner
Before turning north (and later west, to get back to our start point) we took a southward loop on a lovely peaceful trail around the shore of the Wirchensee lake - a zillion miles from the bustle of the Havel river in August and the other crowded waterways near Berlin. We had our second coffee stop at a picnic bench with a view over the lake and spotted a kingfisher flying by. I hurried to unpack the Nikon which I had brought with me just in case, but too late - and the kingfisher didn't return. This lake didn't seem to be so afflicted with algae, but the reed beds and fallen trees along the edge (evidence of beaver activity?) meant that it wasn't easily accessible for swimming.
Wirchensee lake, where we saw a kingfisher
After the circuit of Wirchensee, our route followed the very peaceful and secluded Schlaube river on a lovely singletrail path through the woods - mostly easily rideable, just the occasional awkward sandy or stony section. Sometimes the path was at river level and sometimes elevated above the water, especially at points where the valley narrowed. In fact we weren't quite 100% sure that bikes were really allowed on the path - the Komoot route planner had flagged up a warning of "a section where cycling is forbidden", but we didn't pass any "no cycling" signs, although we had a diversion planned just in case. Anyway the trail was practically deserted - even in August! - and we were very respectful to the small number of hikers we met, as one should be all the time, of course.
Several of the tributary streams had beautiful miniature watermills installed, like this one
Trail by the river Schlaube
The trail, though beautiful, was quite slow going - especially with the number of photo stops! - and by two o'clock we were more than ready for our planned lunch stop. Again, this was a recommendation found via Komoot: Ragower Mühle, a homely restaurant in a converted watermill building directly straddling the Schlaube, and it turned out to be really excellent - we both chose fish dishes, in line with the river/lake theme of the day, washed down with local cider. The place smelt exactly like my childhood home used to when my mother was cooking fish! It is evidently a popular cyclists' destination, as there were many, many bikes parked outside and I think we were lucky that we arrived quite late for lunch, as we might well not have got a table otherwise without having reserved!
Ragower Mühle: rustic restaurant in an old watermill - sensational fish!
After lunch we had a comparatively dull, but also quite short, ride along roadside cycle paths - through a flat agricultural landscape, with absolutely no visible hint that the secret valley we had just climbed out of even existed! - back to Beeskow, where we did a quick lap of the old town admiring the well-preserved city walls and towers, before finishing off with yet more cake at the Beeskow Castle café. On returning to the car, I was horrified to find that it wasn't locked, which was immediately obvious from the fact that the side mirrors hadn't folded themselves away, which they do automatically on locking. Luckily nobody else seemed to have noticed this, and the car and its contents were untouched! A cautionary tale for the rest of our fortnight with this car!
Tower on the old Beeskow town walls
Finishing the day with cake in Beeskow Castle courtyard
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2020-08-29T09:08:15Z
Avg Pace:
4:25/km
Elevation:
501.5
Distance:
65045.5
Moving time:
17269
Activity id:
3982221726
Strava title:
Mini staycation along the river Schlaube
Total photo count:
7
Title:
Mini Staycation along the River Schlaube
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Description:
We were supposed to be off to Austria today but came here instead 😁
Average speed:
3.767
Cover image:
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