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Tom Brett, Winkel, ZH, Switzerland

Gavia Pass (Take 2)

I first planned my ride over the Gavia Pass a couple of months ago, but was thwarted by a mechanical problem with the bike. I ended up abandoning the Gavia route in favour of going up the Stelvio Pass instead - which may sound like getting out of the frying pan into the fire - but all is explained when you read the story
 
Today I had a second chance to follow the exact same route I had planned for the earlier attempt, which involved ascending to the summit of the Gavia from an overnight stop part way up the north side; descending the other side and connecting at valley level to the foot of the Mortirolo Pass; ascending Mortirolo and turning left at the top to follow the Monte Padrio ridge road; and finally descending from Trivigno to Tirano, where I would catch the train home.

The route description of the Gavia Pass warns that the road is very narrow. They weren't joking! It has plenty of potholes, too. It resembled the access route to some isolated mountain farmstead, rather than one of the major Alpine pass crossings. I mitigated the hazards by getting on the road early to avoid the traffic: 07.15 departure from my overnight accommodation in Santa Caterina Valfurva, just as the sun was peeping over the rim of the valley. I got into a good rhythm and resisted the temptation to stop for photos, except for one, when I was within 1km of the top and had only just been overtaken by the first two motorbikes. (This was one of the better bits of road, btw.)

I was the first cyclist to reach the summit, but only just: I was still taking my summit selfie when an e-bike purred along, and by the time I had got coffee and cake, both the cyclists and the motorcyclists were arriving in droves!


The mists were swirling around the valley as I began the descent, through some insanely tight and narrow hairpin bends. (Photo at the top.)
The road was even steeper and narrower on this south side, and I was constantly on red alert for oncoming traffic around the blind bends. Luckily the road was still very quiet. Then there was the additional hazard of sheep blocking the road - as a change from the goats yesterday
 

Once I reached valley level, I had a rather boring few km of main road slog to connect to the next pass, but at least it was downhill so it was over quickly!
What's more, as I reached my turn-off point at Incudine, those swirling clouds developed into rain clouds - luckily just a short-lived shower, actually quite refreshing.

As anyone who follows my adventures will know, I'm a sucker for interesting historic pass roads, and if they are steep, twisty, cobbled or gravel then so much the better! So the description of the alternative "old Roman road" up the Mortirolo, and the stern warning signs at the start of the road itself (photo above), were music to my ears. I wasn't even sure that I was supposed to be there at all - and the very first of the few vehicles I encountered was a police Land Rover - but the officers just gave me a cheery wave as they passed, so that was ok - phew!
Usually the scenic rewards are fabulous in return for the effort of following these old roads. (Think Col du Galibier, think Val Tremola on the St Gotthard Pass.) This was the exception which proves the rule. It was narrow, steep, tough - and pretty boring. I kept on asking myself why I was doing this. Answers: because it's there, and because I can!
Things improved after the summit of the Mortirolo - once the loud, smoking motorbikers had moved on.

The Monte Padrio ridge road forms a high-level link between the Mortirolo and Trivigno passes - with spectacular views far down into the valleys on both sides - and not being a "pass" as such, doesn't seem to have made it onto the motorbike touring radar. I met one; along with one other cyclist, a couple of cars, and a smattering of hikers. (Do hikers smatter?)
Above: start of the Monte Padrio road, from Mortirolo.
Below: view (north side) into the Valtellina valley. Stelvio Pass is in the far distance.
Below: view (south side) into Edolo valley - with those rain clouds still threatening; luckily they stayed over that side, the opposite direction to where I was heading!

The long final descent was really exhilarating, with little traffic, not many potholes, and constant glimpses through the trees of the town of Tirano far, far below - and not seeming to get any closer even after I felt I had already descended quite a long way! My brakes - and hands - got a thorough workout.
In Tirano there was plenty of time for a celebratory end-of-tour ice cream and espresso, and refilling of water bottles, and still to catch the train before the one I had provisionally planned for.


Type: 
Ride
Workout_type: 
default
Date: 
2018-08-09T05:17:17Z
Avg Pace: 
3:46/km
Elevation: 
2316.1
Distance: 
88499.1
Moving time: 
19972
Activity id: 
1760556416
Strava title: 
Gavia, Mortirolo Passes and then some...
Total photo count: 
14
Title: 
Gavia Pass (Take 2)
Summary Polyline: 
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Average speed: 
4.431
Language: 
English
Cover image: 
https://dgtzuqphqg23d.cloudfront.net/iLq5Ss-O1OsAt066TeggforLOOCH-vWlYX7hHk72rp4-1024x576.jpg
StreamLatLng: 
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StreamDistances: 
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Tom Brett, Winkel, ZH, Switzerland
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