Up the Stelvio Pass for a rest
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Oh, fiddle-dee-dee, it's black-top roads for me! After yesterday's shenanigans in the snow https://storyteller.fit/story/5314 - enough roughstuff excitement to last me a lifetime (or at least until next week) - today I reinvented myself as a road weenie. Mission objective: to get to the top of the Stelvio Pass (2760m) as part of my altitude acclimatisation.
I was somewhat delayed getting started from Scuol because of having to adjust my front disc brake, which I think must have taken a knock while I was sliding around on the mountain yesterday. Had to have a second go at it later in the day - might need a bike shop visit before the end of this tour.
The Engadine valley is beautiful, but whatever possessed the people of Scuol to put up such hideous buildings at the edge of town? (Centre of picture, below)
To begin with I whizzed along the main road down the River Inn valley as far as Martina, the border crossing to Austria. There is a bike path, but when I checked last week it was closed due to rockfalls, and anyway today I was being a road weenie.
From Martina I took the Reschenpass road up on towards the Austrian/Italian border. This turned out not to be a great choice (although in reality I didn't have much alternative) as it's a main tourist route into Südtirol and this was the first Sunday of the European school holidays. The traffic was near-continuous, and bothersome. Thankfully the ascent was quite short and not too steep (you can tell I'm getting fitter when I describe an ascent of nearly 500m as "quite short"!) and the nasty traffic spurred me on to a higher work rate to get it over more quickly!
Arriving at 12 noon at Norberthöhe - the false summit before the village of Reschen and the Reschenpass proper - I found that I was hungry and there was a very fine-looking Gasthaus, so I made an early lunch stop. I couldn't really have another Wiener Schnitzel so soon after the last one https://storyteller.fit/story/5295 so I opted for the traditional Austrian beef goulash with dumplings.
I almost wept because it was so perfectly identical to the version which my late mother used to make: the texture of the dumplings (slightly chewy with a tiny bit of crispness on the outside), the tangy paprika flavour of the sauce, even down to the size of the beef chunks and the sprigs of fresh parsley - crinkle-leaved, not flat-leaved! - on top.
I followed it up with coffee & cake and then I was well set up for the rest of the day's ride!
After Reschen, the bike route is completely segregated from that nasty main road - it goes all the way to Merano - and was as well surfaced and signposted as any bike route I've ever seen anywhere.
From the Reschenpass it was literally downhill with the wind behind all the way to the foot of the Stelvio - passing a series of imposing castles on the way (as well as some serious reservoir structures).
The first time I rode up the Stelvio Pass, it was an epic adventure and the fulfilment of a lifetime ambition: I'd first heard about it at the age of 18 from a college friend whose parents were also keen cyclists, but it had taken me another 35 years to actually do the ride myself.
My second time https://storyteller.fit/story/3839 happened almost by accident when a brake failure on my bike forced me to abandon the ride I had originally planned. Hmm, seems like there's a thing about the Stelvio and my brakes...
So to today, the third time, when the Stelvio seemed almost like a rest day after yesterday's extreme exertions. Although my legs didn't seem convinced that they had another 1800m of climb in them when I reached Prad am Stilfserjoch at about 3.30pm ... but I knew they were lying ...
I had been worried that I'd find the traffic on the Stelvio just as bad as the Reschenpass - both times I've ridden it before have been officially designated car-free "bike days" - but because I started so late in the afternoon, although to begin with there was still a steady traffic flow coming down, very little was passing me going up. And by the time I was nearing the top after 8pm, the road was deserted - it was amazing having such a famous pass road entirely to myself - which certainly wasn't the case on those two bike days!
My approach was from the east - the wrong side to take photos in the evening light - so I'm illustrating this with some photos taken on my real rest day the next day. My muscles definitely needed the down time after a tough couple of days, and just spending time at altitude is good acclimatisation even without exercising at altitude, so I'm happy to believe!
The kitchen at my hotel officially should have closed at 20.30 but they specially stayed on as they knew I was still on my way - sweet people!
And if Wiener Schnitzel is mandatory in Austria, surely negroni must be mandatory when visiting Italy?!
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2019-06-23T08:25:23Z
Avg Pace:
4:47/km
Elevation:
2802.3
Distance:
90168.2
Moving time:
25887
Activity id:
2475141432
Strava title:
Reschenpass (1511m) + Stilfserjoch (2760m)
Total photo count:
11
Title:
Up the Stelvio Pass for a rest
Summary Polyline:
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Description:
Acclimatisation tour day 3 ending at 2760m
Average speed:
3.483
Language:
English
Cover image:
https://storyteller.fit/sites/default/files/field/image/2819/externals/tmp/a9f85e7b-a473-4a3e-942c-c4af75067802.jpg
StreamLatLng:
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